Loft Insulation Top-Ups in Middlesbrough & the North East

A loft insulation top-up adds new insulation on top of the layer you already have, bringing it up to the recommended depth of 270mm. It is the most common loft job we do. Many homes were insulated years ago to a fraction of that depth, and even a decent layer settles, gets flattened by storage or is disturbed by other trades over time.

A top-up builds on what is there rather than starting again, which usually makes it a simpler job than a full installation. But it only makes sense if the existing insulation is clean, dry and sound, so we always check first. This page explains how a top-up works and when it is the right choice. For the bigger picture, see our main loft insulation page.

Who a top-up suits

• Lofts with a thin layer of insulation, typically 25mm to 150mm, where the tops of the joists are visible or only just covered.
• Homes where the original insulation is in reasonable condition but has settled or thinned.
• Lofts where insulation was laid in patches, leaving gaps at the edges, around the hatch or where cables have been run.
• Anyone who has bought a home and found the loft only partly insulated.

Many of the older homes we see across Teesside, County Durham and Tyne & Wear, from Victorian and Edwardian terraces to inter-war and post-war semis, had their lofts insulated decades ago to the standards of the time. That thin layer is often still there, and topping it up is usually the sensible next step.

Signs your loft needs a top-up

• You can see the joists. If the timbers show through, you have well under 270mm.
• Bedrooms are cold in winter compared with the rest of the house.
• The insulation is uneven, thick in one place and thin or bare in another.
• It has been squashed by boxes, old boarding or people walking on it.

Our article on the signs your loft needs a top-up covers these in more detail, and how thick should loft insulation be? explains how to measure yours.

How a top-up is done

Measuring and checking first

At the free assessment we measure the existing depth in several places and look at its condition. Is it dry? Is it clean? Is it evenly spread? We also check the eaves, the hatch, any tanks and pipes, wiring and downlights, and look for signs of damp or rodents. This tells us how much needs adding and whether a top-up is really the right answer.

Levelling out the existing layer

Before any new material goes down, existing insulation that has been pushed aside or bunched up is eased back into place, and gaps between the joists are filled. Bare patches around the hatch and at the edges are common, and are dealt with as part of the job.

Cross-laying new insulation

New Knauf Earthwool mineral wool is laid across the existing layer at right angles to the joists. This covers the timbers, which would otherwise let heat escape, and staggers the joins. The aim is an even 270mm across the whole loft, not just the middle.

Keeping the eaves clear

Insulation should come right up to the wall plate but must not block the airflow at the eaves, where fresh air comes into the loft. If old insulation has been stuffed into the eaves, we pull it back and can fit eaves vent trays to hold a clear air path open. Read more on our loft ventilation page.

Hatch, tanks and pipes

The hatch door is insulated and draught-stripped. Cold water tanks are insulated on the top and sides, and exposed pipes are lagged, because the loft will be colder once the floor is properly insulated.

When a top-up is not the right answer

We will tell you honestly if a top-up is not the right job. Laying new insulation over a problem only hides it. A full strip-out may be better if the existing insulation is:

• Damp or mouldy, from a roof leak or condensation.
• Soiled by rodents or birds, with droppings, nesting or urine staining.
• Badly compressed or degraded, so that it adds little.

In those cases we recommend loft insulation removal first, then fresh insulation. Where there are signs of mice or rats, rodent proofing should come before new insulation goes in, and where there is mould, the cause needs fixing first; see mould and condensation.

Storage and boarding

At 270mm, the insulation sits well above the top of most ceiling joists. If boards are screwed straight onto the joists, they crush the insulation underneath and undo much of the benefit. If you want to keep using the loft for storage, raised loft boarding lifts the boards clear of the insulation. It can be fitted on the same visit as the top-up. Our guide to boarding over loft insulation explains why it matters.

What affects the cost of a top-up

The price depends on the size of the loft, how much insulation is already there, how easy the loft is to get into and work in, and any extras such as eaves vents, hatch insulation or boarding. You get a written quotation after the free assessment, setting out the scope, materials and price. See our loft insulation cost guide for more on each factor, and loft insulation grants for information on funding schemes (eligibility depends on your circumstances).

Who does the work

Top-ups are carried out by The Insulation Company or an approved installation partner. Eligible installations come with a written guarantee of up to five years; the terms are set out in your quotation.

Areas we cover

We cover Middlesbrough and Teesside, County Durham, Tyne & Wear, Northumberland, North Yorkshire and York, and parts of West Yorkshire and the East Riding. See all the areas we cover, or call 0800 229 4668 to book a free assessment.