Loft Ventilation in Middlesbrough & the North East

A well-insulated loft is a cold loft. That is the point: the insulation on the floor keeps the heat in the rooms below. But cold surfaces and moist air do not mix well. If warm, damp air from the house reaches the cold underside of the roof and has no way out, it condenses into water. Ventilation is what carries that moisture away and keeps the roof timbers, the felt and the insulation dry.

We look at ventilation on every loft job, and we also put right lofts where the airflow has been blocked or was never enough. This page explains how loft ventilation works and what we do. It goes hand in hand with loft insulation: the two should always be thought about together.

Who needs to think about loft ventilation

• Anyone having loft insulation installed or topped up, because the loft will get colder.
• Homes with condensation dripping from the roof felt or timbers, especially on cold mornings.
• Lofts with black spotting or a musty smell; see mould and condensation.
• Lofts where previous insulation was pushed hard into the eaves.
• Homes in exposed or coastal spots, such as along the Teesside, Durham, Northumberland and North Yorkshire coasts, where damp, windy weather is common.

Signs of poor loft ventilation

• Water droplets on the underside of the felt, on nails or on the rafters.
• Dark staining or black mould spots on the timbers or roof lining.
• A musty, damp smell when you open the hatch.
• Damp or matted insulation, especially near the eaves.
• Rusty nails or fixings in the roof timbers.

How a loft is ventilated

Eaves ventilation

In most pitched roofs, air comes in at the eaves, where the roof meets the outside walls, moves up through the loft and leaves higher up or through gaps in the roof covering. The eaves are the most important part of that path, and the part most often blocked.

Why the eaves get blocked

The usual cause is insulation stuffed hard into the corners at the edge of the loft, often during an earlier install. Boarding laid tight to the edges, stored items and debris can do the same. Once the eaves are blocked, fresh air cannot get in and moisture builds up.

Eaves vent trays

The answer is not to leave the edge of the loft uninsulated, because that creates a cold strip around the ceiling below. Instead, we fit eaves vent trays (also called rafter trays or baffles) between the rafters. They hold a clear air channel open above the insulation, so the insulation can go right up to the wall plate while air still flows in.

Other vents

Where eaves ventilation alone is not enough, other vents can add airflow, such as lap vents that fit between overlaps in the roof underlay, or tile or ridge vents. What suits a roof depends on what is under the tiles. Older bitumen felt does not let moisture through, while modern breathable membranes do, so the right approach depends on the actual roof. That is why it has to be assessed in person. Some vents involve work on the roof covering itself, and where that needs a roofer we tell you.

Reducing moisture at the source

Ventilation carries moisture away, but it helps to stop so much getting into the loft in the first place:

• Bathroom and kitchen extractor fans should be ducted to the outside, not into the loft. We often find ducts that end in the loft, have come loose or were never connected. That pumps warm, wet air straight onto the cold roof.
• The loft hatch should be insulated and draught-stripped, so warm air from the landing does not pour into the loft.
• Gaps around pipes, cables and downlights in the ceiling let moist air rise into the loft.

We can draught-strip the hatch and fit insulation and vents in the loft. If a fan duct needs re-routing out through the roof or wall, or the fan itself needs electrical work, we explain what is needed; electrical work should be done by a qualified electrician.

What we do

1. Inspect the loft, the eaves, the felt or membrane, the timbers and any fans or ducts.
2. Clear insulation and debris back from the eaves.
3. Fit eaves vent trays where needed, and re-lay the insulation up to the wall plate.
4. Insulate and draught-strip the hatch.
5. Recommend any further vents or work, and explain anything that needs another trade.

Our guide to loft condensation and ventilation covers the causes in more detail. A loft inspection is the best way to find out what your loft needs.

What affects the cost

The price depends on the size of the loft, how much insulation needs pulling back and re-laying, how many vent trays or other vents are needed, access to the eaves, and whether it is part of a wider insulation job. You get a written quotation after a free assessment.

Who does the work

Ventilation work is carried out by The Insulation Company or an approved installation partner. Eligible installations come with a written guarantee of up to five years; the terms are set out in your quotation.

Areas we cover

We cover Middlesbrough and Teesside, County Durham, Tyne & Wear, Northumberland, North Yorkshire and York, and parts of West Yorkshire and the East Riding. See all the areas we cover, or call 0800 229 4668 to book a free assessment.